本帖最后由 怡草 于 2016-7-11 21:45 编辑
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<P>我知道,今夜,我会想凤凰。</P>
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<DIV>来之前,在一本书上看到新西兰诗人路易*艾黎赞美凤凰是中国最美丽的小镇。初见凤凰,印证了这句话的真实。她静静的流淌,在古老斑驳的岁月里,静静的流淌了千年。只为了你,为了你刹那的回眸。</DIV>
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沱江。</DIV>
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<DIV>去凤凰,是在雪灾。选择坐火车去,但由于雪灾时期,提早五天也很难买到票。但执着前行。于是,我与扎西买上站票,站在过道里,度过火车上13个小时。半夜,到达吉首。一大早,我们便前往凤凰。初见它,视线忽然变得开阔。沱江一泻千里,吊脚楼错落在江的两岸。她没有丽江小桥流水人家的婀娜多姿。少了几分女性的轻柔,难得的是多了几分刚硬,有一气呵成的大气。碧绿的江水从古老的城墙里蜿蜒而过,翠绿的两岸清山倒映江心。江中游船数点,山间暮鼓晨钟。河畔吊脚楼轻烟袅袅,错落有致,叠叠仄仄的黑瓦连成一片。河边还不时传来捣衣声,让我不由得频频回顾。</DIV>
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我在沱江的吊脚楼下吃饭。<WBR></DIV>
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<DIV>我打从吊脚楼走过,竹竿上挂着五颜六色的花色衣裳,足让人想象楼上人家的故事。只是如今窗外的那块蓝印花布,并没有翠翠探出头来,嫣然一笑,佯羞不出来。</DIV>
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<DIV>凤凰的人,无一不有着沈老笔下《边城》的真性格。无论是客栈的阿姨,卖货吆喝的老板,还是店里挥动铲子炒菜的厨子,与人谈话,亲切直爽。纵使今年因为雪灾天气,影响出游的旅客。街口巷子里有寒冬的冷清,可人情的温暖如三月春花,繁华极胜。</DIV>
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船坞。</DIV>
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<DIV>为了凭吊我爱的诗人——沈从文。他的小说《边城》是清水出芙蓉,天然去雕饰。我特意去了他的墓地,在凤凰古城的听涛山上。他生于凤凰,长于凤凰,长眠于凤凰。他的墓碑是天然的五彩石,不加雕琢,犹如他的文风,看似信手拈来,却不落痕迹,恰到好处。墓碑背面有句话,我记得深。“不折不从,星斗其文。亦慈亦让,赤子其人”。古人说“以文论人,未免失偏颇”。我看不尽然。有沈从文的谦卑,淡泊,才可映衬出他的词清丽句。是素色的丹青画卷,不食人间烟火之象。</DIV>
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仍用沱江水,洗衣做饭的当地人。</DIV><WBR>
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<DIV>夜来无事。欹枕江边,杳杳没孤鸿。凤凰的夜色,是舞动的鱼龙。凤萧声动,玉壶光转。何妨三五好友任一扁舟,菱歌泛夜,乘醉听萧鼓,吟赏烟霞。</DIV>
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在路边买了农妇手编的花环,戴在头上。</DIV>
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在龙豆上,刻着“初遇便与许平生”</DIV>
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在凤凰过的情人节。</DIV>
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吊脚楼。</DIV>
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<DIV>今夜。在梦里,我又开始流浪,流浪远方。</DIV>
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